The Dutch capital is a city like no other, with a vibrant and liberal atmosphere that attracts millions of visitors each year. Amsterdam is renowned for its stunning architecture, picturesque canals, and iconic landmarks such as the Rijksmuseum, the Anne Frank House and the Van Gogh Museum. In addition to its rich cultural heritage, Amsterdam is also famous for being a cyclist’s paradise, with over 800,000 bikes in the city. So, if you’re planning a trip to Amsterdam, be sure to rent a bike and explore the city like a local. Just be sure to keep your eyes on the road, as cycling is king here, and you don’t want to get in the way of the locals rushing to work or school.
Just the Facts
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Typical May Weather: An average high of 63°F and a low of 45°F.
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Airport: Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (AMS)
Getting Around
- Rental Car: One day we hired a little Audi from SIXT in order to visit Kasteel de Haar (De Haar Castle). More about that, below.
- Public Transportation: Trams, Metro, Trains…all are very easy to use. And, of course, there are the ubiquitous bicycles.
Where to Stay
Swisshotel: This four-star boutique hotel is in the heart of Amsterdam’s historic city center and right on Dam Square. The rooms are sound-proofed (it can get loud out there) sophisticated and comfortable and there is no smoking (of any kind). We were here on May 4th and during Dodenherdenking (Remembrance Day) when the Dutch commemorate the soldiers and civilians who died in WWII and other conflicts. During that evening’s two-minutes of silence, Zee and I were on a tram, which stopped, and everyone onboard was observant and respectful. It was a powerful moment.
What to Do
Soho House
Of course, you must be a member, but fortunately for us, Zee is. Found just off Dam Square, we toured the dining spaces and the rooftop, but as with all Soho Houses, videos and photos are strictly forbidden.
Kasteel de Haar
Like something out of a fairy-tale (think towers, ramparts, moats, and drawbridges) this castle is a good forty-five-minute drive south of Amsterdam. To take public transport would run closer to an hour and a half and involve multiple trains, and that’s why we opted to rent a car for the day. Back to the castle…De Haar is the largest in the Netherlands and while once a private residence it’s now a private, non-profit foundation. Light refreshment is available on the grounds, and this includes Heineken, naturally.
The Red Light District
De Wallen is the largest red-light district in Amsterdam and consists of a network of alleys containing approximately three hundred one-room cabins rented by sex workers who offer up their sexual services from behind windows or glass doors and beneath red or black lighting. Taking photographs of the sex workers is frowned upon, if not illegal, so unless you want your phone tossed into a canal, keep it in your pants.
Dam Square
The hyperlink above will take you to a live webcam of the square, which is the historic center of the city. A short distance beyond the northeast corner is where you’ll find the red-light district, while at the west end of the square is the neoclassical Royal Palace. Dominating the center of this rectangular square is the National Monument; a white stone pillar erected in 1956 to memorialize the victims of World War II. Numerous attractions in the vicinity have turned the Dam into a bustling tourist zone.
Damrak
This popular avenue runs between Amsterdam Centraal (Amsterdam’s main train station) to the north and Dam Square to the south. The term “Damrak” has become synonymous with the Amsterdam Stock Exchange in the same way that “Wall Street” is synonymous with the New York Stock Exchange and NASDAQ. Here you’ll find plenty of restaurants, bars, tourist shops and canal boats.
Canal Cruise
One of the best ways to see Amsterdam is by boat, so while it might seem “touristy” this activity is worth your time and money. There’s a canal cruise for everyone: long, short, daytime, nighttime, educational, alcoholic, and then there are the themed cruises promising pizza, ice cream, BBQ or even four-course meals. Just don’t drink too much as there may not be a “head” onboard.
Kuekenhof
Meaning “kitchen garden” Kuekenhof (also known as the “Garden of Europe”) is one of the largest flower gardens in the world; it’s less than an hour’s drive from Amsterdam and easy to reach by dedicated busses. To Zee and I this felt like the Disneyland of tulips. The park covers 5 79 acres and boasts 7 million flower bulbs. And while Kuekenhof is synonymous with tulips, they also feature hyacinths, daffodils, lilies, roses, carnations, irises and more. For Zee and I, the best part was arriving when they opened, renting bicycles on the grounds, and pedaling to the remote fields in order to take photos and fly our drone. Early in May we were a little late in the season, but impressed, all the same. Peak dates are apparently between mid-March and May.
Haarlem
“Haarlem” is not a misspelling but a predecessor of “Harlem” in English. While considered a part of the Amsterdam metropolitan area, Haarlem is a ½ hour trip by car or train from the city center. Once a major trading port surrounded by a defensive wall, Haarlem’s cobblestone streets and gabled houses help the city maintain its medieval charm. Haarlem (which felt like “Amsterdam Light”) made for an easy, relaxing, and fun day trip.
Zandaam
With its unique architecture, Zandaam is located on the River Zaan and is only a twenty-minute drive from Amsterdam and an even quicker trip by train. The Inntel Hotel alone makes the rail journey worthwhile, especially since this apparent mishmash of stacked traditional homes overlooks the station. Rest assured, we were told that the interior hotel rooms are conventional in shape and modern.
Zaanse Schans
A twenty-minute train ride north of Zandaam is a neighborhood famous for their handful of colorfully painted windmills. What I found particularly fascinating is that during the Dutch Golden Age (1588 to 1672) there were THOUSANDS of windmills powering saws that processed Scandinavian wood for the shipbuilding and paper industries. Did I mention that the entire town smells like chocolate owing to the existence of not one but two chocolate factories?
Where to Dine
Spargo
This cozy spot located in the old city center and on the market square (Nieumarkt) feels like the epicenter of Amsterdam and as though you just might see everyone in town walk or bike by, if only you sat long enough at your meal. Ours consisted of pizza and beer.
Mama Kelly
Found within Amsterdam’s Olympic Stadium from 1928, Mama Kelly’s was only a half hour by tram from Dam Square and well worth that short trip. The setting is like no place you’ve been, what with all the neon and pink. And the food and drinks are just as beautiful. This was by far the most “Instagrammable” restaurant we dined at while in Amsterdam.
ML
Positioned at the foot of the towering, gothic St. Bavo Church in Haarlem, ML is a petite, seventeen room hotel with the perfect patio for having a light snack and a heavy pint.
Tatsu
Unable to escape the gravitational pull of St. Bavo Church in Haarlem, Zee and I ate surprisingly good sushi at this stylish and popular spot.
Van Wonderen Stroopwafels
Located in a charming storefront, van Wonderen has been serving up stroopwafels since 1907. “What’s a stroopwafel?” you ask. The stroopwafel was first “discovered” in Gouda (a city to the south of Amsterdam) and consists of two round waffles baked crispy and mated to one another by means of sweet syrup. They come with all manner of sugary and nutty toppings and are utterly delicious.
Greenwood’s
Greenwood’s Keizersgracht is a charming café that since 1988 has been Amsterdam’s original all-day breakfast/brunch and lunchroom (we sat outside on the canal). They serve classic American and English breakfasts with plenty of vegan options. Theirs is a homemade Bloody Mary and high tea is also available.
Door 74
This speakeasy isn’t easy to find, but with its art deco interior and craft cocktails, it’s well worth the search. Once inside, you’ll be transported back in time to the Prohibition era, with dim lighting, plush leather chairs and a vintage vibe. The bar’s mixologists are true artists, creating unique and inventive cocktails that are as delicious as they are beautiful. Whether 9 you’re in the mood for a classic martini (yes, please) or something more adventurous (Zee’s listening) the bartenders at Door 74 have you covered.
Memories of India
While traveling, Zee and I are always on the lookout for exceptional Indian food and our tour of Amsterdam was no exception. Located down the street from Door 74 we were delighted to stumble upon this expansive and festive restaurant. We were even more pleased that the proprietors were able to find us a table. Thanks for the memories.
In Summary
So pack your bags and head to Amsterdam – the city of canals, bicycles, and a relaxed atmosphere. Whether you’re into art, history, food, or just strolling along the canals, Amsterdam is a city that won’t disappoint. Soak up the atmosphere in the cafes, explore the winding streets and alleys, and indulge in some of the local delicacies like stroopwafels and bitterballen. And who knows, maybe you’ll even find yourself in a cannabis coffeehouse, experiencing Amsterdam’s unique vibe firsthand. With so much to see and do, you’ll be glad you added that extra day to your stay in this vibrant city. At a minimum, I would recommend four days (we spent five) in the “city of canals”. And don’t forget about Haarlem and Zandaam.
As always, Voyagers, we are here for you. Should you have additional questions about Amsterdam or any of the other destinations we’ve visited, please reach out. We’d love to hear from you.